The Medina of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage site that is about 2.5 x 2.5 Kilometers in area, with over 9,000 streets and alleyways. There are numerous posts and websites available to discuss the rich history of Fez and how it dates back 900 AD, but there is a limited supply of maps and navigation aids to aid the traveling shopper/tourist. During my initial research on the internet, I was able to locate general locations for known shops and districts (Talaa Kebria, Place Seffarine etc), but I could not pin down an exact location in the same manner one could if they were using Google to navigate Paris.

Going into the Medina for the first time can be intimidating, but if you know what to expect, you will be fine. Here are my lessons learned on our 4-day shopping stay in Fez:

• Do your research on what you want to buy or what you want to see, then attempt to locate known and reputable shops using Tripadvisor or a similar website.
• Obtain an initial high quality map of the Fez Medina and mark locations for shops, hotels, hospitals, banks, post offices, restaurants, and police. Obtain a big picture and in-detail map. Here’s a look at the big picture map and in-depth map that we used, which we acquired at the hotel.
• Ensure you have back-up maps just in case yours gets ruined. Your digital support services are limited inside the Medina.
• Once in Fez, discuss your map with your hotel staff or local contacts to validate locations and provide additional information.
• Bring an inexpensive day bag for water, snacks, and in our case, a mini airplane sized bottle of whiskey. Don’t put anything the bag you are not willing to lose. I had a camera in the bag, but it was also attached to me via a homemade lanyard.
• Dress for the weather, dress down (the nicer the clothing and jewelry you wear, the more you pay, or become a potential target), and dress conservatively. It can get a bit dirty in the heart of the Medina, so accept that your clothing will get a little mud, animal droppings, and random liquids on them. It was raining when we went, in November, so if you visit at a different time that may not be the case.

Once in the Medina you will need to periodically stop to check your position on the map. This is a huge signal for local guides to begin asking you questions or try to lead you to their shops. If you need to check the map, either fold it so you can palm read it, or wait until you find a place to step out of the crowded lanes. The roads/lanes/alleys are narrow and you don’t want to be the one holding up the heavy flow of pedestrians.

Google Maps and similar programs are useless in the Medina: Learn to use print maps and how to orient your movement to the map.

• Find landmarks in key areas to use as launch points if you got lost and need to re-orient.
• Go with someone else or in a group if you can. You will travel down narrow alleys with odd turns and dark areas. They are totally safe during the day, but it’s better to not be alone. We were not in the Medina after dark, but even as the sun was setting the mood was already changing.
• Careful asking for directions. Asking for directions can get you biased responses. Those answering you may have a hidden agenda.
• Maps and street signs may not match. Sometimes, the street names on the map will not always be the same as the signs or painted markings (if present), but they will be close phonetically.
• The Medina is not a mall, so be ready to explore! A lot of great shops are down narrow or out of the way alleys.

Be timely. On a Friday after 12:00 is a great day to get your bearings. Most shops are closed and the alleyways are pretty clear. We walked around the Medina 4 times on Friday and located several shortcuts, stores, and production districts without being hassled too much or fighting traffic.

Study French. A good percentage speak English, but If you want to really connect and have a good time you need a decent command of French. Duolingo is a great free resource. In our case, my wife Rachel spoke French and that made negotiating much easier.

Return to your hotel before or right at dark and know where you are having all of your meals. If you plan ahead and know exactly where you are going to eat, this will be much easier. We had lunch in the Medina, and dinner in our Riad (Al Bartal). Our dinner was made whenever we were ready, served in the atrium of the riad, and the service is incredibly accommodating. Highly recommended.

Stay close to where you’ll be shopping. If you plan to buy a bunch of stuff and ship it yourself, or take it home in luggage, I recommend reserving a Riad/Dar in the center of the Medina. Riad Idrissey and Riad Laroussa are near the middle as a reference.

Bring water for the day and hand sanitizer. You do not want to drink any water from the tap. If you forget the water or run out, it’s only about 4 Dhirams a bottle (~$.40).

– Mike